LIBRI DI LIUTERIA

MAKING AN ARCHTOP GUITAR Robert Benedetto Centerstream Publications LIBRO LIUTERIA CHITARRA

MAKING AN ARCHTOP GUITAR. Robert Benedetto. BOOK. 

LIBRO DI LIUTERIA ILLUSTRATO, PASSO PASSO PER COSTRUIRE UNA CHITARRA ARCHTOP. 

279 pagine.


Series: Guitar
Publisher: Centerstream Publications
Medium: Softcover
Author: Robert Benedetto

The definitive work on the design and construction of an acoustic archtop guitar by one of the most talented luthiers of the twentieth century. Benedetto walks the reader through all aspects of construction through to marketing your finished work. Includes a list of suppliers to acquire all the tools and materials listed; a list of serial numbers for Benedetto guitars; full-color plates featuring the author's models; photos from the author's personal scrapbook of players who endorse his guitars; and fold-out templates for construction. 8-1/2? x 11. 279 pages.

Prezzo: €99,99
€99,99

THE LUTHIER'S HANDBOOK A Guide to Building Great Tone in Acoustic Stringed Instruments Roger H. Siminoff

THE LUTHIER'S HANDBOOK, A Guide to Building Great Tone in Acoustic Stringed Instruments. Roger H. Siminoff.

INCLUDES : STRING GAUGE CALCULATOR

LIBRO MANUALE DI ACUSTICA DEI LEGNI E DI LIUTERIA PER CHITARRA ACUSTICA.

CALCOLATORE PER DETERMINARE IL GIUSTO SPESSORE DELLE CORDE. 

Series: Book
Publisher: Hal Leonard
Medium: Softcover
Author: Roger H. Siminoff

An essential item for the instrument builder, The Luthier's Handbook explores the secrets and science behind making good-sounding acoustic stringed instruments. Renowned author Roger H. Siminoff brings to the table more than four decades of luthiery experience and shares the time-tested philosophies, tips and technology of the craft. As the ideal complement to other books on building instruments, this text describes the structural and acoustical attributes of air chambers; what to listen for when tap-tuning; selecting a good piece of wood; placement of the braces and tone bars and how to tune them; how to select the right strings; what to consider in bridge design concepts; and much more. Includes a free String Gauge Calculator for determining the right set of strings. 96 pages.

 

SIMINOFF


THE MYSTIQUE:
I am a hardcore sailor. And while I sail a fairly modern
sailboat with the latest electronic gear, I have dreamt of the
great crossings of Columbus, Balboa, Erikson, and the rest.
I ponder their bravety, their fortitude, and that certain charm
and splendor that accompanies such heroic and fearless
acts of long ago. And, I wonder how they connected with
their vessels and understood their whereabouts in the
absence of today's modern technologies.
The craft of lutherie boasts such connection. It calls upon
the introduction of modern tools while carrying the
mystique of leather aprons, handmade chisels, smelly
hide glue, and the hands of artisans like Stradivarius,
Guanari, as well as the more contemporary work of
Gibson, Martin, and others.
As sailors learned from the rutters (diaries) of sailors
before them, we have learned from the rutters
(instruments) of these great craftsmen. We evaluate their
measurements, count their grain lines, test their finishes,
and listen to the musical wonderment of instruments
hundreds of years old. Not only do we love how old
instruments sound, we love how old they smell.
It is often suggested that technicians of yesteryear
seemed to do a better job than we can today ... that they
had some secret sauce that made their instruments
sound sweeter. What did they know that we don't? How
did they learn to do that? Who did they learn it from?
And, the most commonly asked question; why does that
"pre-war" instrument sound better than any of those
made today?

THE REALITY:
Maybe one should ask, "what did it sound like then?" As
my friend Mike Longworth of C.F.Martin used to recount,
"we have never learned to make a new instrument that is
100 years old!" Age, and the contribution that time and
years of playing make to an instrument is one of the major
dividing lines between today's lutherie and yesterday's.
The truth is, we have more knowledge about wood and
finishes today than craftspeople did 100 or more years
ago. Our tools are better as are our measuring devices.
Our adhesives are better and our finishes are better and
more durable. The ability to season wood correctly greatly
exceeds what was done in the past by stacking, stickering,
sealing, air drying, and keeping fingers crossed. And, with
today's modern machining and CAD/CAM devices, we can
hob out a neck or body, gang-saw perfectly aligned fret
slots, and build production instruments almost faster than
the wink of an eye.

THE VISION:
There are a lot of wonderful books on instrument
construction and maintenance authored by some of the
best luthiers (and good friends) in the business. I'm guilty
of authoring four. The Luthier's Handbook is not about
making good instruments, but about understanding the
science behind making instruments that sound good. My
goal here is to go behind the scenes and talk about the
philosophy and technology involved in this craft including:
why we choose certain woods, howto select a good piece
of wood, where to put the braces and tone bars, how to
select the right string gauges, whatto listen for when taptuning,
howto tune the components, and more.
My primary focus in this text is on issues which are
acoustical or structural in nature - I'll leave the
cosmetics and instrument design up to you. For example,
I am concerned about the height and weight of the bridge
as it relates to transferring and driving the strings' energy
to the soundboard. While the design is certainly tied to the
bridge's functionality, in this book, I am only concerned
about selection of wood and shape as it relates to
acoustical properties and providing the right leverage or
torque. I talk about finishes from a strictly acoustical
standpoint - whether you choose dull or matte, sunburst
or plain, tinted or clear, is up to you. If your instrument
has a tailpiece, I speak about how it works and not how it
is engraved or plated.
You can build the instrument, I want to help you think
about it. I want to share my experiences of more than 40
years with you. All you have to do is read, think, and, I
hope, build better instruments.


CHAPTER 1

ZEN AND THE ART OF BUILDING ACOUSTIC STRINGED MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS
There are many steps to building instruments and a life
full of opportunities to learn to use them. Practice and
devotion to the craft will help you achieve the knowledge
expected of a luthier.
The great philosopher John Locke, said that "knowledge
was the agreement or disagreement of two or more
ideas." The length of time you spend practicing and
focusing on your craft will develop wisdom (knowledge
plus experience). And, if you have the gift of creativity
and the art of sensitivity, you are clearly on your way to
plateaus of satisfaction and achievement beyond your
wildest dreams.
Whether you build only one or many instruments, you
will learn processes that take you from A to Z. You will
learn to select the right materials. You will learn
techniques and tricks. And, you will learn - from trial
and error - how to work each step through until you
arrive at the desired destination. You will, I hope, learn
from your mistakes and failures. These become the real
tools and secrets of your trade.
But it is not the knowledge and wisdom that will make
you a great luthier. Rather it is the application of this
knowledge and wisdom that become your fingerprint,
your signature. In the final analysis, it is how you apply
the combination of your skills that will herald what people
will see in you through the instruments you build.
Beyond these traits, there is another piece that others will
not see. There is a component of the real you, should you
choose to accept the challenge, that speaks to how you
wear the inner garb of luthier, and how you personally
accept the challenge of devoting your life to being a true
instrument maker.
I know of some luthiers who approach their craft almost
spiritually. They attempt to maintain the greatest presence
of mind and rationality when they are building an
instrument. Their approach to instrument construction is
not just mechanical, but sensual as well- with all of their
senses invited to take part in the process. Their beliefs on
how parts work, and how parts fit, and their reverence for
wood is, to say the least enlightening. To them, the
instrument is not just a bunch of pieces glued together,
but instead an imaginary entity being contained by sides,
top, and back - each of which plays an important role in
unifying the whole. Each corner is not a joint, but the
union of two planes. Each line has a purpose. Each curve
has a thought. Everything has a wholeness, beginning
from the builder's complete vision, continuing through a
finished instrument, and ending with a glorious tone.
I think there is much to be said for having a feeling - a
sense - of what do and how to do it, in addition to the
mechanical knowledge of the craft itself.
While an industrial design student at Parsons School of
Design, I remember being exposed to the idea of feeling
art from the inside of the piece as well as from the
outside. A chair, for example, wasn't just a nice form to
look at; it has an internal meaning and shape, too. You
may have seen sculptors who worked as hard on the
inside of the piece as they did on the outside. Their art
has no boundaries; it is not just outer shapes, but an
entire multi-dimensional piece of sculpture.
When I was living in New Jersey, I had the pleasure of
knowing Keith Ferris, a highly respected artist who
specialized in renderings of Air Force and Navy aircraft.
His work is superb. I remember watching him begin a
wall-size piece of art of several aircraft. His first lines
were those of the superstructure and struts. Then he
penciled in the fuel tanks and innermost components of
the plane. Finally, he covered all of that line work, hiding
it forever under his paint as he completed the picture of
the planes' exteriors. He knew his aircraft were right -
because everything inside them was in place.
To those luthiers I mentioned previously, creating the truss
rod pocket, slot, and filler strip, and gluing in the truss rod,
is as important a procedure as polishing the sound board's
face, even though the rod will not be seen once the
instrument is completed.
The creative process has no boundaries. There are no
rules, there are no guidelines. Anything goes - at least
in the realm of thought. The truly creative work we see in
luthiery comes from free-thinking craftspeople who have
learned the thrill of allowing their minds to take them
away from their textbooks, workbenches, and tools to a
place where they can think, envision, and dream,
returning only when they are ready to create.
For the creative luthier, the mind takes great risk. Their
work is typically unconventional, untraditional, and
possibly unmarketable. They spend a great deal of time
pursuing the infinite aspects of their instruments so ...

An essential item for the instrument builder, The Luthier's Handbook explores the
secrets and science behind making acoustic stringed instruments. Renowned author
Roger H. Siminoff brings to the table more than four decades of luthiery experience
and shares the time-tested philosophies, tips, and technology of the craft.

The Luthier's Handbook includes expert advice on:
Wood selection
Tap tuning
Bridge designs
Bracing and tone bar configurations
Soundboard design and construction
String selection
Truss rods
Tools and fixtures
Much more ...

"When you're in the music business for any length of time, you have the opportunity
of meeting the 'best of the best' ... people like Roger Siminoff. As a designer,
musician, and luthier always looking to make stringed musical instruments better,
Roger has a rare talent for doing just that. Having worked on many projects with him,
I can't say enough about his thoroughness and intuitive skills. As a writer, he expresses
ideas from his heart but with a complete understanding of the subject matter."
Bruce J. Bolen
V.P. Marketing Development
Fender Musical Instruments


 Preface
 Chapter 1 - Introduction
 Chapter 2 - How It Works
 Chapter 3 - Woods
 Chapter 4 - Structure
 Chapter 5 - Bridges
 Chapter 6 - Sound boards
 Chapter 7 - Truss Rods
 Chapter 8 - Strings
 Chapter 9 - Tailpieces
 Chapter 10- Finishes
 Chapter 11 - Tuning The Assembly
 Chapter 12 - Wrap Up
 Index
 About the Author

Prezzo: €39,99
€39,99

JAPAN VINTAGE GUITARS VOL.1 GRECO TOKAI FERNANDES YAMAHA FENDER ROLAND

JAPAN VINTAGE GUITARS VOL.1 BOOK

LIBRO CON FOTOGRAFIE A COLORI DEI MODELLI PIù NOTI.

FERNANDES

GRECO

MOSRITE

FENDER JAPAN

YAMAHA FOLK
LL-100D

ORNETTS

and others

145 pages

Prezzo: €129,99
€129,99

GUITAR PLAYER REPAIR GUIDE LIBRO MANUALE RIPARAZIONE CHITARRA ELETTRICA ACUSTICA

GUITAR PLAYER REPAIR GUIDE. D. Erlewine. 300 Pagine di consigli per la riparazione, mantenimento, accorgimenti, direttamente dai più noti liutai. Dalla corretta sostituzione delle corde (B.B. King usa avvolgere l'intera corda alle meccaniche) alle verniciature, con riferimenti in micron alle chitarre di Eric Clapton S.R.V. e tanti altri.

Prezzo: €39,99
€39,99

GUITARMAKING TRADITION AND TECHNOLOGY LIBRO LIUTERIA CHITARRA ACUSTICA CLASSICA COSTRUZIONE

GUITARMAKING: TRADITION AND TECHNOLOGY. 388 pagine illustrate, sulla costruzione e il design della chitarra folk e della chitarra classica.

LIBRO MANUALE DI LIUTERIA CLASSICA ACUSTICA.

 

Guitarmaking TRADITION AND TECHNOLOGY

A Complete Reference for the Design & Construction of the Steel·String Folk Guitar & the Classical Guitar

William R. Cumpiano and Jonathan D. Natelson
photographs by Clyde Herlitz / line dravvings by William R. Cumpiano

CHRONICLE BOOKS SAN FRANCISCO

 

LAYING OUT THE BRACING PATTERN

These depict the width of the cross struts. To denote the fan-brace locations, we now use as an inital reference the lower parallel line for the lower cross strut. Mark on that line, at intervals of 1/4 inches, three dots on both sides of the centerseam (that is, at1 1/4 inches, 2 ½ inches, and 3/4 inches from the seam). Next, measure ½ inches up the centerseam from the bottom of the outline, and make a dot. Using the ruler, find a point on the guitar outline that is 7 inches from that dot and draw a line connecting the two points. Repeat for the other side. These lines denote the bottom V of the bracing pattern. Measuring from the centerseam on each leg of the bottom V, mark dots at intervals of 2 inches. Connecting the six dots on the lower cross with the Six dots on the bottom V completes the fanbrace layout. The rosette grafts are laid out by drawing lines tangential to the soundhole and square to the cross struts, and then drawing parallel lines I inch from each tangent. To denote the finger braces, mark a dot on the upper parallel line of the lower cross strut % inch from the outer edge of each rosette graft. Then mark a dot on the lower parallel line of the upper cross strutI ½ inches from the outer edges of the rosette grafts, and connect the dots. Measure 1 ¼ inches up along the centerseam from the upper cross strut and draw a line perpendicular to the seam. Draw a parallel line 5/16 inch further up. These lines denote the upper transverse bar. Next, draw two vertical lines connecting the upper transverse bar with the upper cross strut, each 2 1/2 inches from the centerseam. These lines indicate the boundaries of the upper transverse graft. To locate the transverse bridge pad, mark from the top of the outline down the centerseam the distance from the twelfth fret to the saddle. For a 25.6-inch scale, that will be 12.8 inches plus .10 inch compensation, or 12.9 inches. Draw a line perpendicular to the centerseam at that point, and then parallel lines ¼ inch above andI inch below. The pad will actually be shaped as shown in Fig. 7-10 (scale drawings), but it will be positioned using the horizontal lines1 1 /4 inches apart. Finally, draw a line perpendicular to the centerseam tangent to the top of the outline. This will be a guideline for cutting off the top of the sound board squarely. Steel-string Bracing Layout The template outline and centerline have been marked on the undersurface of the soundboard. Refer to Fig. 7-10 (scale drawings) while reading the following steps. The headblock is represented by a 2 x 2l /2-inch rectangle, which is located at the upper center of the template outline. Draft the rectangle so that it is bisected by the sound board centerline. The top line of the rectangle must be set back 3/32 inch from the template outline (the thickness of the sides) and accurately perpendicular to the centerline. The accuracy of this line is vital, since we will alig the actual headblock to it when it is glued to the soundboard. If the headblock is crooked, the neck will be also. The bridge outline must be drafted on the undersurface of the sound board. Refer to Chapter 15 to make a bridge outline template, and locate its outline as shown in the layout drawing in Chapter 3. The upper face brace is just above the soundhole. Its closest edge is1/4 inch above the soundhole rim. Draw two parallel lines1/2 inch apart, perpendicular to the centerline. Extend the lines till they reach the template outline. The upper face graft is between the head block and the upper face brace. Draw two parallel lines 7/8 inch apart, perpendicular to the centerline. Center them in the space allotted. Connect the ends with angled lines as shown. The X-brace is represented by two sets of two parallel lines 5/16 inch apart, which cross at the centerline. You may copy the splay of the X brace from the diagram, paying particular attention to the distance between the ends of ...


CONTENTS
PREFACE
CHAPTER 1 The Guitars Anatomy
CHAPTER 2 Materials & Tools
CHAPTER 3 Preparation & Planning
CHAPTER 4 The Neck & the Headpiece
CHAPTER 5 The Plates
CHAPTER 6 The Soundhole Rosette II
CHAPTER 7 Soundboard Bracing
CHAPTER 8 Side Bending
CHAPTER 9 Assembly I
CHAPTER 10 Assembly II
CHAPTER 11 Purf1ing & Binding
CHAPTER 12 The Fingerboard
CHAPTER 13 Final Carving & Finiting
CHAPTER 14 Finishing
CHAPTER 15 The Bridge & Pinning the Steel-String Neck
CHAPTER 16 Set-Up
AFTERWORD Troubleshooting & Guitar Care
BIBLIOGRAPHY
BILL OF MATERIALS
SOURCES OF GUlTARMAKING SUPPLIES
INDEX  

Prezzo: €74,99
€74,99

HOW TO MAKE YOUR ELECTRIC GUITAR PLAY GREAT Dan Erlewine MANUAL LIBRO CHITARRA

HOW TO MAKE YOUR ELECTRIC GUITAR PLAY GREAT. Erlewine. BOOK AND DVD. NEW EDITION.

LIBRO PER LA REGOLAZIONE, IL SETTAGGIO DI TUTTE LE PARTI DELLA CHITARRA.

LIBRO E DVD. NUOVA EDIZIONE.


The Electric Guitar Owner's Manual
Series: Book
Publisher: Backbeat Books
Medium: Softcover
Author: Dan Erlewine

From shopping for a first electric guitar to setting customized action, this do-it-yourself player's primer for owning and maintaining an electric guitar explains the ins and outs of: choosing the right guitar; cleaning, tools and basic maintenance; personalizing and improving on a “factory setup”; trouble-shooting; basic guitar electronics; setups of the pros; and much more. Written by Dan Erlewine, author of the bestselling Guitar Player Repair Guide and the popular "Repairs" column in Guitar Player magazine, this book also includes a plastic sheet with specialized guitar tools you can snap-out! 138 pages.

Prezzo: €31,99
€31,99

MAKE YOUR OWN ELECTRIC GUITAR AND BASS WARING AND RAYMOND CHITARRA LIBRO LIUTERIA

MAKE YOUR OWN ELECTRIC GUITAR AND BASS. DENNIS WARING AND DAVID RAYMOND. Fotografie a colori. 96 pages.

LIBRO MANUALE DI LIUTERIA PER COSTRUIRE UN BASSO ELETTRICO E UNA CHITARRA ELETTRICA.

These well-detailed instructions for building a standard 6-string solid-body model guitar and bass emphasize simplicity & logic, use common tools and easy-to-order materials, and provide resources for buying electronic components and other hardware. Pictures and diagrams abound. Both traditional and modern features crop up, making the finished product perfect for any genre of music. 96 pp.

A thorough step-by-step guide to making your own personal guitar or bass. Explains the proper tools needed and provides detailed instructions with full color photographs.

Prezzo: €49,99
€49,99

MAKE YOUR OWN ELECTRIC GUITAR, M. HISCOCK

MAKE YOUR OWN ELECTRIC GUITAR, MELVYN HISCOCK. Attenta analisi dei vari concetti di produzione delle industrie più prestigiose, con riferimento alle distanze tra la barrette di varie Gibson, Fender e Rickenbacker. Passo per passo le varie fasi della costruzione e un capitolo dedicato agli schemi dei circuiti elettrici. 220 pagine. In inglese.

Prezzo: €25,00
€25,00

CONSTRUCTING A SOLID-BODY GUITAR A COMPLETE TECHNICAL GUIDE-ROGER H. SIMINOFF LIUTERIA LIBRO

CONSTRUCTING A SOLID-BODY GUITAR, ROGER H. Siminoff.

LIBRO MANUALE DI LIUTERIA PER LA COSTRUZIONE DI UNA CHITARRA ELETTRICA SOLID BODY. 

FOTOGRAFIE BIANCO E NERO E A COLORI DI TUTTE LE FASI DI LAVORAZIONE. 

CON ALLEGATI I PROGETTI IN SCALA 1/1.

 

Guida tecnica completa curata nei minimi particolari per la costruzione di una chitarra elettrica solid-body. I vari tipi di legno, il manico, la tastiera, il corpo, la posizione dei pickup, l'assemblaggio delle diverse parti, fino al colore e alla verniciatura. Il tutto illustrato da oltre 150 fotografie. Contiene anche un progetto pronto per essere realizzato a grandezza naturale. In inglese.

Whether you're a musician or a woodworking enthusiast, you'll thoroughly enjoy Roger Siminoff's book, Constructing A Solid Body Guitar. This 64-page manual uses over 150 photos, several illustrations and four life-size blueprints to assist the reader in choosing the proper materials and tools, as well as using the correct skills and techniques to produce a beautiful handmade instrment that doesn't look handmade at all! Plastic-comb bound.

 

Roger H. Siminoff has been building and playing musical instruments for almost 30 years. During that time, he has had far more than a passing interest in music, graphic arts, and industrial design - a combination that has made him one of America's foremost authorities on string instruments and their design, a leading music journalist, and a highly respected inventor. Born in 1940 in Newark, New Jersey, Siminoff showed an early interest in mechanical things. That laid an important foundation for his creative career. As a teenager, one of Roger's first instruments was a pedal steel guitar with linkage made from model airplane parts. Among others was a roughly crafted - but playable - 5-string banjo. The first led to a second, and that led to a whole series of instruments, and ultimately to a catalog full of Siminoff-made instrument parts. By the early 1960's, Roger was building custom banjo necks and parts for musicians in the New York metropolitan area. Before the end of the decade, his mail-order parts business - Siminoff Banjos – was providing special equipment and accessories to instrument makers in every part of the world. During that time, Roger was attending the Parsons School of Design in New York City. He majored in Industrial Design and then started a graphic arts company in New Jersey that specialized in photography, art services, and printing. Not limiting his mechanical interests to instrument construction, in 1963 he developed and built a prototype for a major East Coast printing equipment manufacturer, of an offset printing machine capable of printing the faces and flaps (at the same time) of envelopes at 18,000 impressions per hour - a rate unprecedented in the industry. Having branched out into the building of guitars and mandolins in early 1970, Siminoff conceived and built special carving machines needed to do the exact shaping of instrument necks, and of mandolin top and back plates. By early 1973, he had developed a unique truss rod system to counteract the forces of string tension on musical instrument necks. For this design, he was awarded a U.S. patent in 1974. During the following year, that design was licensed to Gibson Incorporated, an internationally prominent musical instrument manufacturer now based in Nashville, Tennessee. With printing facilities readily available to him, Siminoff channeled his banjo expertise into the writing and preparation of an instruction book for bluegrass banjo playing. The book established itself as a success in a matter of months. Then Roger embarked on an even more ambitious publishing project: the creation of a monthly music magazine that focused on bluegrass and old-time country music. In February 1974, PICKIN' MAGAZINE made its debut. Within two years, it was hailed as the most influential publication of its kind. By mid 1975, Roger had several other musical instrument and accessory designs in progress. These included the invention of a special fast-wind tuning knob for string instruments (for which he was granted a U.S. Patent and several foreign patents). The knob, dubbed the "CRANK," has been licensed to Gibson and to Schaller, (W. Germany) a world reknowned manufacturer of tuning machines, A unique nut, with adjustable slots for each string, also won Siminoff a U.S. patent and subsequently was licensed to Dunlop Manufacturing. Then his frustrations at the inconvenience of changing strings won him a few more patents: he invented two methods to change instrument's strings without cutting, twisting, or knotting them. One design, a string with a special pin at its peghead end, was licensed to Gibson under the name "GRABBERS." In early 1984, Roger was granted another U.S. Patent, this one for an unusual modular guitar. It features interlocking parts that permit a musician to put together an instrument to suit his or her tastes in much the same way a photographer might change camera bodies and lenses. It is expected that this guitar will make its debut in mid-1986. Several other music-related designs are in progress on the Siminoff workbench. Competing with them for space are many projects not related to music, such as a radical design for a new valve system for the common gasoline engine. As a consultant to Gibson, Roger assisted in the reissuance of several instruments originally produced by Gibson in its earlier years. Among these were the Earl Scruggs model banjo (a replica of Scruggs' Granada model). Another was the reintroduction of the famed F-5 mandolin first produced by Gibson in the 1920's. This instrument has been enthusiastically received since making its successful "comeback" in 1978. Doing consulting work for several other instrument manufacturers, Siminoff has been responsible for the development of special hand-finishing techniques, improved structural designs, and compatability "tuning" of the acoustic properties inherent in individual instrument parts. As an author, Siminoff's writings include literally hundreds of articles on instrument construction and repair, musical acoustics, and the history and craftsmanship of musical instruments.

A COMPLETE TECHNICAL GUIDE by ROGER H. SIMINOFF

A COMPLETE TECHNICAL GUIDE by ROGER H. SIMINOFF

CONTENTS

PREFACE

 

CHAPTER ONE

THE INSTRUMENT

TOOLS

HARDWARE

 

CHAPTER TWO

ACOUSTICS OF THE ELECTRIC GUITAR

 

CHAPTER THREE

WOOD

AVAilABILITY OF WOODS

 

CHAPTER FOUR

GLOSSARY

 

CHAPTER FIVE

BUILDING THE NECK

THE TRUSS ROD

ATTACHING THE EARS

lOCATING THE FRETBOARD PLANE

INSTALLING THE NECK-FASTENING HARDWARE ..

THE PEGHEAD

Covering The Peghead

Creating The Peghead's Shape

Preparing The Peghead Veneer

Attaching The Peghead Veneer

Finalizing The Peghead Thickness

Shaping The Peghead

Drilling The Peghead

 

CHAPTER SIX

THE FRETBOARD

Binding The Fretboard

Installing The Fretboard

SHAPING THE NECK TO THE FRETBOARD

DECORATION

Creating The Designs

Cutting The Pearl

Inlaying The Pieces

Cementing The Pieces In Place

Finishing The Peghead's Inlaid Surface

ARCHING THE FRETBOARD

POSITION MARKERS

INSTALLING THE FRETS

SHAPING THE NECK

 

CHAPTER SEVEN

CONSTRUCTING THE BODY

Types Of Body Constructions

Creating The Body's Shape

laminating The Body

Fitting The Neck To the Body

Cutting Out The Body Shape

lOCATING THE BRIDGE POSITION

INSTALLING A STUD BRIDGE AND STUD

TAILPIECE

INSTALLING A TREMOLO UNIT

lOCATING THE PICKUP POSITIONS

ROUTING OUT THE PICKUP CAVITIES

POSITIONING THE ELECTRONIC CONTROLS

ROUTING OUT THE ELECTRONICS CAVITY

lOCATING THE OUTPUT JACK

CONNECTING All COMPONENTS

INSTALLING THE BRIDGE AND TAILPIECE STUDS.

 

CHAPTER EIGHT

PRE-FITTING All THE PARTS

Fitting The Nut

Electronics Coverplate

 

CHAPTER NINE

FINAL SANDING

FilLING THE WOOD'S PORES

 

CHAPTER TEN

COLORING

Curly Maple Grain Contrast

Sunburst Shading

CLEANING THE BINDING

 

CHAPTER ELEVEN

FINISHING

Preparation For Spraying

Wet Sanding

Polishing

 

CHAPTER TWELVE

ASSEMBLING THE INSTRUMENT

Dressing The Fretboard

Dressing The Frets

Truss Rod Cover

Installing The Geared Machines

Shielding The Electronics

Attaching The Tailpiece, Bridge, and Pickups

Wiring The Electronics

Attaching The Neck

Filing The String Slots In The Nut

MAINTENANCE AND MINOR ADJUSTMENTS

ADJUSTING THE INTONATION

TAKING CARE OF YOUR GUITAR

PARTING THOUGHTS

 

APPENDIX I

SUPPLIERS

 

APPENDIX II

FRETTING SCALES

 

APPENDIX III

HARDWARE

DIAGRAMS 1-4

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ELECTRIC GUITAR CONSTRUCTION A Guide for the First-Time Builder Tom Hirst LIBRO LIUTERIA CHITARRA

ELECTRIC GUITAR CONSTRUCTION. A Guide for the First-Time Builder, Tom Hirst.

LIBRO MANUALE DI LIUTERIA PER COSTRUIRE UN CHITARRA ELETTRICA SOLID BODY.

FOTOGRAFIE A COLORI DI OGNI FASE DI COSTRUZIONE. 

 

168 pagine.
Electric Guitar Construction A Guide for the First-Time Builder. The definitive work on the design and construction of a solid body electric guitar.

Series: Guitar
Publisher: Centerstream Publications
Format: Softcover
Author: Tom Hirst


Q.: What on earth would make someone want to build an electric guitar from scratch? Can't you just buy one cheaper? A.: Well sure, but with this definitive book on the subject as your guide, you can create your own axe masterpiece, with the precise finish, the exact pickups, and the custom hardware you've always wanted. Plus, you'll have the indescribable satisfaction of knowing you created something cool out of nothing. And that sure beats buying off the rack! Organized logically from start to finish, this helpful guide will assist you every step of the way; from the design and planning stage to the final setup, each step in the process is written about in abundant detail, with hundreds of photographs, and special full-color sections on wood selection and finishing. Also includes a glossary of terms, an index of materials suppliers, and much more!

Inventory #HL 00000311
ISBN: 9781574241259
UPC: 073999648119
Width: 8.5"
Length: 11.0"
168 pages

What on Earth would make someone want to build an electric guitar from scratch? Can't you just buy one cheaper? What happens if it doesn't tum out? These questions and many many, more will be asked of you as you plow along through the excitement and anxity of building your first guitar. It does help if you're a little bit different and it's very true that it would be both faster and cheaper to just go buy one off the rack. But it wouldn't be the same one would it? Its fairly safe to assume that spending some time on this project will not be a problem for you. If you need an axe for a gig this weekend you're in the wrong place. You're going to have an investment of approximately $500 in your instrument and there are lots of $500 guitars out there, but how many will have the exact Seymour Duncan or EMG pickups and cusm tom deigned switching you want, the Schaller hard- ware and custom finish; yours will. Your guitar will also have that intangible, indescribable feeling that comes from creating something out of, well I can't say nothing, but you get the picture. Friends and relatives will say you're nuts and that you're wasting your time and money and then they'll want you to build them one too. I started building guitars almost by accident. I wanted a Fender Telecaster so badly, but I just couldn't come up with the money to buy one. I was hanging around in my favorite guitar store one day just being a nuisance when a guy came in with a box of guitar parts. He had a neck, a plywood Tele style body, and two of almost everything else; two pickguards, sets of pickups, bridges, etc. He had taken an el cheapo copy guitar and tried to upgrade it with new parts but nothing had fit where it was supposed to go and he was trying to trade the whole mess in on a new guitar. When the store told him they wouldn't take any of it in trade he asked them where the dumpster was. I politely showed him to the hatchback of my little station wagon and I had my Tele. All I had to do was re-assemble it and make it work. I did, and it did, and I was hooked. A short time later I was reading an article in Guitar Player on hot-rodding guitars and "kit" guitars.

First connect each pickup directly to the jack. Use temporary connections like alligator clips for this. They'll hum a bit for lack of shielding but will tell you if the parts are working right. Remember this technique is for problems with pickups and switches not working, and not for chasing down hum. After you've determined that each pickup works, you can connect them to the next item in the chain. This could be a volume pot, mini toggle switch or the main pickup selector depending on your design. Test the circuit after each part is added to the chain and sooner or later you will run into the problem again, only now you know exactly where it is and you can deal with it specifically. The wiring is complete and I'm tightening in the Electrosocket jack plate. "good solder joint/ bad solder joint" drawings. These can short out against other components or against the shield and cause the switch not to work as expected. in connecting your hot leads. Check your plan and your connections care- full y. Look for stray strands of wire that may not have gone through the solder terminal cleanly as was shown in the I like to plug the guitar in and give it a test before I secure the output jack and the rear cover plate. I have found, on occasion, that the guitar works fine in the test but not after the remaining parts are fastened in place. This can be the result of a wire or component shorting against the shielded cover of the electronics compartment. Sometimes the output jack won't fit well in the access hole when the plug is inserted. Most times this can be corrected by rotating the jack in the hole but I have had to take a 1/2 round file in there and open up the hole to get a good fit. This can be an extremely time consuming process and is not one to undertake when you're in a hurry or a bad mood. If you get frustrated with trying to solve a particular problem, take a break. Let it sit for awhile and come back when you are rested and in a better frame of mind. Remember, this guitar has taken a long time to get to this point and you didn't get here by rushing through all the previous steps. Take your time, be thorough and methodical and you'll find the guilty part(y). Using a mini chisel to clear away excess lacquer from the control cover "lip". There are times when all these good ideas fail and things still just don't work right. This can be a frus- trating time and lots of folks will simply take every- thing apart and try re-wiring it from scratch. Some- times this works, but more often you fall into the same rut and make the same mistake you did originally. My approach in these cases is to re-wire just as you did the drawing; from the pickup on down the line. Well now you have it wired tested and ready to rock. You can go ahead and put the rear cavity cover in place (if you've used one) and screw it down. From here we move on to the fi- nal set up adjust- ments. Wired, tested and ready for the final set up.

Electric Guitar Construction;

A Guide for the First Time

Table of contents:

Introduction:

 

1. Design:

D-I The importance of planning

D-2 Wood selection

D-3 Neck design

D-4 Body design

D-5 Color selection and hardware

D-6 Electronics

D-7 Pickguard design

D-8 What to buy and when to buy it..

 

2. Tools and Templates:

T-I List of tools

T-2 Power and hand tool safety

T-3 About templates

T-4 Headstock template

T-5 Body template

T-6 Pickguard and rear cover templates .

T-7 Optional templates .

T-8 Neck profile gauges

T-9 Fretboard radius gauge

 

3. Neck:

-1 Neck layout .

-2 Truss rod channel

-3 Mark and cut fretboard to length

N-4 Fretboard inlay

N-5 Assemble neck

N-6 Rough cut neck shape

-7 Tuning machine holes

-8 Side dots and rough sanding

-9 Sand inlay

I -10 Install fretwire

-11 Shape neck

-12 Finish sand neck

 

4. Body:

B-1 The body blank

B-2 Neck pocket

B-3 Necklbody axis

B-4 Bridge placement

B-5 Pickup placement and routing

B-6 Control cavity layout

B-7 Rough cut shape

B-8 Rear cavity rout

B-9 Sand body edges

B-1O Rout body edges

B-Il Input jack, strap buttons & wiring channels

B-12 Finish sand body

 

5. Plastics:

P-I Mark centerline and outline

P-2 Rough cut shape

P-3 Final fit rear cover

P-4 Rout edges (straight bit)

P-5 Bevel edges

P-6 Rout pickup openings

P-7 Drill mounting screw & control holes

 

6. Finishing:

F-l About finishing

F-2 Spray equipment

F-3 Clear finishes

F-4 Grain filler

F-5 Applying color

F-6 Applying clear coats

F-7 Wet-Sanding and Buffing

F-8 Finishing schedules

 

7. Assembly:

A-I Final fretwork

A-2 Rough shape the nut

A-3 Install the hardware

A-4 Neck to body assembly

 

8. Wiring:

W-I My method

W-2 Equipment and soldering

W-3 Shielding

W-4 Pickups

W-5 Mini switches

W-6 Pickup selectors

W-7 Pots and capacitors

W-8 The output jack

W-9 The complete diagram

W-IOTroubleshooting

 

9. Set up:

S-l What is a set up?

S-2 Slotting the nut

S-3 Adjusting the truss rod

S-4 Setting string height..

S-5 Setting intonation

S-6 Final adjustments

 

10. Cost Analysis for this guitar:

11. Index of Suppliers:

12. Glossary:

13. Index:  

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